Bibek Paudel’s weblog

A couple of months back, just out of the Rimal Theatre in Kathmandu, Jwalanta said he wouldn’t travel to the Rara Lake. He went trekking to Muktinath instead. Well, not because he started to dislike the Rara Lake but because a sense of deep awakening had overpowered him, like everyone else who’d just watched the play “Karnali Dakhhin Bagdo Chha” (कर्णाली दख्खिन बग्दो छ — Karnali flows southwards). The play brought many to tears – one of those days, the play had to be halted because someone cried out very loud. Rules of the “Gurukul” require that the audience maintain a stoic silence. This play is among Gurukul’s most successful ones, it was played for many more days than originally scheduled and watched by dignitaries including the Constituent Assembly members and ministers. Interestingly, it was their first play for most actors who hail from a village in one of the most remote districts of Nepal – Mugu in Karnali Zone. Some of them were in Kathmandu for the first time in their life. Incidentally, the other day, I came across the webpage of somebody in Washington University who has been nurturing his dream to travel through Nepal, mainly the Karnali region for about seven years now.

“Karnali Dakhhin Bagdo Chha” is a must watch for everybody. The title of the play has dubious meaning. It symbolizes the large exodus of young males fleeing Karnali to work in the Southern lowlands, often India. The play depicts the real picture of the region that has historically and continually been denied the attention of the government and the elites of Kathmandu. These days, when we hear talks of restructuring the state and making of a “new” Nepal, issues like making Hindi the official language, autonomy to all of the Terai, name of the republican system have been made to appear as the most pressing ones. On the other hand, problems in our country are in abundance, waiting to be “recognized” as problems. Any Kathmandu dweller who has been too engrossed in the trivial details of his personal life surely will realize how lucky he is to be who he is. He will be forced to think to himself if it’s alright for him to be so selfish and oblivious to the woes of his compatriots. I guess it must be called a quirk of fate for somebody to suffer because of the place he is born to. The play is appealing in every aspect. The set, sound and visual effects amalgamate perfectly with the lively acting. The play ends with an actor asking the audience if they have a map of Karnali. “Do you consider us equals? If yes, did you see any signs of similarity and equality between you and me? Why does my body stink and your body smell of expensive perfumes?”, he continues. “While you all are so entranced by the beauty of the Rara lake, it is cliched to us- there’s no charm in the blue waters of Rara. Please don’t come and visit the lake, for that makes me feel that you’re enjoying our hardships.”

Kathmandu International Theatre Festival 2008 is concluding tomorrow. Participated by artists from different countries, the last day will feature “Karnali Dakhhin Bagdo Chha.” Gurukul informs that the play will continue for about a month after the conclusion of the festival. So, if you miss out on tomorrow’s show, make sure you’ve got the tickets for your whole family and friends. This is not something you’d want to miss, especially if you think your life is full of problems and that you deserve more in life.

I had never seen anything like this before. By its end, the play had shaken me completely. I realize that theater is much more lively and powerful medium of expression than cinema. Sincere thanks to Sunil Pokharel and his Aarohan Theater Group working tirelessly over the years for the improvement of theater art in Nepal. It’d have been easier after all, to whine about the cultural invasion, degradation, lack of opportunity and leave Nepal for greener pastures overseas.

Click here for a Nepali version of the play’s review.

How to reach Gurukul:
While traveling from Maitidevi Chowk to Purano Baneshwor, Gurukul can be spotted on your left after you’ve crossed the Dhobi-Khola bridge.
(Drag the mouse cursor over the following map to know the exact location. You can zoom in and out as you require.)

View Larger Map